Monday, December 26, 2011

Electric Water Pumps For Irrigation

!±8± Electric Water Pumps For Irrigation

People who live in rural areas might think of irrigation as something that is needed for growing crops. Families who live in the city are probably more familiar with systems that help tend their lawns and keep them looking lovely. In either case, electric water pumps for irrigation might be exactly the equipment found in use. Let's take a closer look at these systems.

A basic system starts with the pump. To determine what size is needed there are a few facts that have to be considered. The total surface area to be covered, the volume of delivery, and the type of soil that exists. A standard perc test can reveal how porous the soil is and the rate at which it will soak up the water.

Hoses and pipes are used to move the liquid from one location, or container, to another. If you are going to draw it from a well, you will also need casing to line the inside of the shaft that is dug down to reach the water. Casing lids can be fitted surface side to prevent contaminants from entering the well shaft. When left unattended, these lids can be secured with a padlock to keep small rodents from falling down in the well.

Depending on the type of system, sprayer nozzles can be installed at regular intervals along the pipes to provide liquid to the crops or lawn. Underground systems make use of buried water lines which have pop up valves that engage when the pressure is applied to them. These stay nicely below mower blade level when there is no pressure pushing them up, and when the pressure is relieved the simply retreat back toward the ground.

A power source has to be available to provide the electricity. Some installations use fuel powered generators. Other situations might be able to make use of solar power to harness enough electricity to power the system And, of course, you can use power from the utility company. The size of the pump will determine how much power is needed. Solar systems might be dependent on additional panels and back up batteries.

When it comes to electric water pumps for irrigation, there are many sizes from which to choose. The area to be supplied will be the main factor in deciding which pump will be able to produce the desired results. Keep in mind that if there are going to be ninety degree turns, it will have an effect on the final output pressure.


Electric Water Pumps For Irrigation

Deep Cleaners For Carpet Buy Used Dunlop D407 Wholesale Liteon Ac Adapter

Friday, December 16, 2011

Rain Bird XFD 500ft Roll Drip Line Solid

!±8± Rain Bird XFD 500ft Roll Drip Line Solid


Rate : | Price : | Post Date : Dec 17, 2011 00:08:24
Usually ships in 1-2 business days

Rain Bird XFTM Series DriplineRain Bird XFTM Series Dripline is the latest innovation in the Rain Bird Xerigation® family. Because it is the most flexible, kink-resistant tubing available, it's ideal for irrigating areas where traditional drip tubing is difficult to install. XFTM dripline is perfect for small, narrow and tight planting areas, as well as areas with tight curves or many switchbacks.Because it accepts 17mm insert fittings, XFTM Series Dripline Insert Fittings, Rain Bird Easy-Fit compression fittings and LOC fittings makes it easier than ever to design with, and install Rain Bird dripline.XFTM Series Dripline is simple, reliable and durable.FeaturesSimpleUnique material offers significantly greater flexibility and kink-resistance for fast, easy installation.The bend radius for XFTM dripline is 3" no matter which way you bend the tube. Other driplines will bend 4" if bending with the natural curve of the coil and only 7" if bending against the natural curve of the coil.Greater flexibility assures design capability of tight curves and spaces.Accepts Rain Bird Easy Fit compression fittings, XFTM Series Dripline insert fittings, 17mm insert fittings and LOC fittings.Variety of flow rates, spacing and coil lengths provides design flexibility for a number of nonturfgrass applications.ReliableThe pressure-compensating emitter design provides a consistent flow over the entire lateral length ensuring higher uniformity for increased reliability in the pressure range of 8.5 to 60 psi.DurableDual-layered tubing (brown over black) provides unmatched resistance to chemicals, algae growth and UV damage.Operating RangePressure: 8.5 to 60 psiFlow rates: 0.6 and 0.9 gphTemperature:Water: Up to 100°FAmbient: Up to 125°FRequired Filtration: 120 meshSpecificationsOD: 0.634"ID: 0.536"Thickness: 0.049"12", 18", 24" spacingAvailable in 100', 250' and 500' coils

Poulan Chain Saw Repair Grand Sale Toro Sprinkler Timers For Sale

Saturday, November 19, 2011

Growing Strawberries in the Home Garden

!±8± Growing Strawberries in the Home Garden

Strawberries are the number one fruit crop for home plant­ings. Strawberries may also be grown as a cash crop in large home plantings.

On the other hand strawberries are a versatile, highly nutritious fruit. One cup of fresh berries supplies more than the recom­mended daily adult requirement for Vitamin C.

You should be able to harvest at least a quart of berries per five feet of row, if follow good strawberries cultural practices. Usually, an initial planting of about 125 plants will provide plenty of fresh strawberry and enough for freezing or preserving for a family of four. Strawberries are tasteful fruits and you can prepare many recipes with strawberries for your family or kids: strawberry ice cream, strawberry salad, strawberry jam, strawberry muffins or strawberry pie and the list can keep going. What do you say? I think we have just convinced you to plant strawberries in your home garden, thus can be sure of strawberries freshness.

Before decid­ing to plant strawberries, consider:

* strawberries site selection

* strawberries plant selection

* strawberries site preparation

* strawberries propagation and planting

* strawberries general care, including fertilization, renovation, and irrigation

* strawberries mulching

* strawberries harvesting

* strawberries pest control.

Strawberries site selection

The most successful strawberry planting receives full sun most of the day. Shady locations promote more vegetative growth, but yield few fruit. Shady locations are usually wetter than sunny sites, and therefore have greater disease problems.

Plants stressed by drought have more disease problems and a lower yield than strawberries that have received adequate water. Irrigation water should be available to help the plants survive dry periods throughout the year.

Strawberries do best when grown in soil with a pH range of 6.0 to 6.5. Avoid planting strawberries in low areas because they are often prone to late spring frost. The site should not have been used for any kind of berries, tomatoes, potatoes, or peppers prior to planting new strawberries. This helps prevent disease problems, such as tomato ring spot virus and root rot.

Strawberries plant selection

While there are many strawberry varieties from which to choose, the performance of any one variety is greatly influenced by local growing conditions and climate. When choosing a strawberry variety, it is important to consider the following:

* Select strawberry varieties adapted to your region.

* Accept only healthy-looking, certified virus-free plants. Purchase plants from an established nursery and place orders as early as the nurseries will take them. Be sure to specify a delivery date.

* Most strawberries will produce good crops if only one variety is planted. However, Spring Giant and Apollo are exceptions and should be planted within 25 feet of another variety for pollination. It is usually better to plant more than one variety. A disease or frost is less likely to devastate your entire planting if you have several varieties.

* The fruiting season can be extended by planting varieties that ripen at different times.

* Consider the preservation quality and disease and insect resistance of the variety.

* Choose strawberry varieties that you like. Some people like sweet berries, while others prefer tart berries.

* Choose strawberry varieties that bloom when you want them to. Early-season varieties ripen in early May to mid-June. Mid-season varieties ripen in mid-May to mid-June. Late-season varieties ripen in late May to mid-June. Ever bearers produce berries mid-May to mid-June, a few during the summer, and again in the fall. Fruit size and quality may not be as good as it is in other varieties, and total yield is often lower than that of June-bearers. Some varieties, such as Tennessee Beauty, are listed as June-bear­ers by some sources and ever bearers by others.

Strawberries soil preparation

If the site is in grass sod, wait one year before planting strawberries. Use that year to kill grass and grubs, and to build the beds and provide extra drainage, if needed.

Have the soil tested several months before planting strawberries.

Till the soil to provide a weed-free planting area. Keep in mind that beds should be narrow enough for easy picking-usually not more than three feet wide. Organic matter, such as straw, manure, peat moss, or compost, can be added by plowing or tilling it into the soil several weeks before plants are set. Two to three weeks before planting, mix the recommended fertilizer and lime into the soil. Allow rainfall to settle the beds or use sprinklers.

Strawberries propagation and planting

Strawberries are propagated by removing rooted runners from the mother plants and placing them in a new strawberry bed. Patented varieties may not be legally propagated either for expanding your plantings or for sale.

Adequate soil moisture must be present during the winter months for good root de­velopment. Plants should not be set during dry windy conditions or if extremely cold weather is predicted during the following few days.

Before planting, remove all but two or three of the most vigorous leaves from the plants. Plant the straw­berries 1.5 to 2.5 feet apart, depending on the vigor of the variety. Since the strawberry has the potential to produce 30 to 50 runner plants the first year of growth, this distance will allow plants to develop runners in the row, while keeping the middle between the rows free of plants. Ask your nursery representative for recommen­dations on plant spacing for the varieties you choose. Plant the strawberries so that the crowns (where the leaves arise) are even with the ground surface after the soil has been firmed around the roots. This is very important, because plants set too deeply will rot and plants set too shallowly will dry out and die. Spread the roots out somewhat in the planting hole. Pack the soil firmly enough to hold the plant in the ground if you tug on a leaf, but not so firmly as to crush the plants.

If you use a hand trowel to plant the strawberries, push it about six inches into the prepared soil, and then pull it forward to open the hole. Put the plant into the hole at the proper depth and remove the trowel. Then, close the hole by placing the trowel in front of the plant and pulling the trowel forward to firm the soil. After set­ting, give each plant at least a pint of water.

Do not allow plants to become dry during the plant­ing operation. As each bundle of plants is opened, place the plants in a container with just enough water to keep the roots wet. Planting may be easier if the roots are trimmed slightly with scissors or a sharp knife so that they fit more easily into the hole.

An irrigation system such as leaky pipe or other drip irrigation is recommended in order to lessen disease problems associated with wet foliage. These systems also conserve water that can be lost through evapora­tion and runoff.

Strawberries growing conditions

First Year

During the summer, runner strawberry plants form from mother plants and take root. In the fall, plants build up food re­serves and form fruit buds for the next year's crop. The plants must be kept healthy for the best development of new plants and fruit buds.

The strawberry plant is shallow-rooted and requires frequent watering after transplanting. If there is little or no rainfall within any two week period of spring or sum­mer, enough water should be applied to wet the soil to a depth of 12 inches. This will usually require about one inch of applied water.

Between August 15 and September 15, broadcast 1.5 pounds of ammonium nitrate per 100 feet of row.

This will give adequate nitrogen for fruit bud set. Make sure leaves are dry at application, and brush all fertil­izer off the leaves immediately afterward. Apply about one inch of water if rain is not expected within a day or two.

For strongest strawberries and best production the follow­ing year, remove all flowers throughout the first season. If berries are allowed to develop the first year, they will reduce plant growth, runner development, and next year's crop.

Subsequent Years

In the spring, take a soil sample from the beds. After picking strawberries, renovate your planting. Renovation is the process of narrowing the strawberry rows and controlling weeds after fruit harvest. This is necessary to keep the strawberry bed healthy and productive. Narrow the rows to eight to 10 inches with a hoe. Con­trol weeds and apply any fertilizer needed at this time. Water strawberry plants after renovation. Be sure to read the label on any herbicides used to properly time irrigation for optimum weed control. If weeds are outgrowing the strawberries, there may be too much nitrogen in the soil and you may need to reduce nitrogen fertilizer ap­plications. Otherwise, apply fertilizer as recommended by your Extension educator, based on your soil test results.

Follow the same fertilizer and care recommendations as those made for the first year (watering, fall nitrogen application, and winter frost protection). Properly nur­tured strawberry beds should last through three to five years of harvest.

Strawberries mulching

A well-established row of vigorous strawberry plants will produce a mulching effect because of their own shade. Strawberry plants may benefit from a winter covering of straw or similar mulch over the row. This winter mulch is used to prevent undue freezing and thawing, as well as excessive drying of the plants by winter winds.

The proper time to apply mulch is between middle and late December, following several hard frosts. By this time, the plants have developed cold hardiness. Mulching at an earlier time may cause serious injury to the plants during the winter because they will not become cold hardy. Straw should be added loosely to a depth of three to four inches to cover the entire row.

The mulch must be removed when the earliest strawberry plant growth begins in the spring (usually March). In order to determine the proper time, lift some of the mulch and examine the plants beneath it. If new leaves have begun to develop, their color will be light green. At this time, the mulch may be removed or raked to the side of the row. This allows the mulch to be con­veniently placed back over the row if another frost is predicted.

Leaving some of the mulch in the berry row is desir­able, as long as foliage and flower stalks can emerge. This will help keep soil and soil-borne diseases off of the fruit. The mulch aids in harvesting during wet spells, decreases damage received in hail storms, lessens erosion of new strawberry beds, and helps with weed control. Winter mulch may also help avoid some spring frost injury by delaying plant development and flower­ing.

Fabric mulches are also available. They are usu­ally applied over hoops which arch over the strawberry beds. The edges of the fabric are covered with soil or weighted with bricks or other objects to keep out wind. Fabric mulches must be removed when bloom begins in order to allow bees to pollinate the flowers. Otherwise, you can expect a poor crop. If plants appear pale green in color and have not yet begun to bloom, go ahead and remove the mulch to allow more sunlight to reach the plants. To remove fabric mulch, carefully take the soil or other weight off of one edge and off of the ends. Then, fold the fabric off of the plants and lay it in a row on one side of the strawberries. This makes it easy to replace the fabric in the evening if there is danger of frost. When the fabric is no longer needed, it may be folded and stored for the next season if it is in good shape. Fabric mulches seem to provide a small amount of protection from hail damage if they are in place when the storm occurs.

Strawberries harvesting

The time from strawberry bloom to first strawberry harvest will vary from 18 to 45 days, depending on the variety and weather. Pick strawberries when they reach the desired stage. Varieties vary in their color development at ripeness. Some are pink when ripe, while others are red or even dark red. Tasting the berries is the best way to tell when to pick them.

For best storage life (3-10 days in the refrigerator, depending on handling and variety), pick the fruit in the cool part of the day. Leave the caps on until you use the fruit. If you want to freeze or process the berries, you may want to choose varieties with long necks rather than sunken caps, because the caps are easy to remove.

Strawberries pest control

Strawberries are susceptible to many diseases and insects. The most notable animal pests are aphids, spider mites, white (root) grubs, strawberry leaf rollers, slugs, pill bugs, and nematodes. There are many chemical control options for these pests. However, homeowners may want to use gentler means of pest control, such as using resistant varieties (where avail­able), soaps for aphid and spider mite control, specific Bacillus thuringiensis preparations for grub and leaf roller control, beer traps for slugs and pillbugs, and plant­ing marigolds the year before strawberry planting for nematode control.

Diseases of strawberries include bacterial and fungal leaf spots, powdery mildew, leaf scorch fungus, leaf blight, gray mold and other fruit rots, red stele root rot, verticillium wilt, various viruses, and nematode-caused diseases. Planting resistant varieties is the easiest method of disease control. This method is only successful if the plants are resistant to the strain of the disease that is present in your area.

The most important consideration is to obtain healthy, disease-free plants. Strawberry plants show few visible symptoms of virus disease, but infected plants grow poorly and produce little fruit. It is important to obtain certified plants from virus-free stock. Choosing virus resistant varieties may also help. Most strawberry plant nurseries have certified disease-free plants avail­able.

When the fruit ripening period coincides with cool, cloudy, rainy weather, fruit rots and leaf spot may develop. These conditions are often encountered in the eastern section of the state because of the relatively humid conditions. The problems are usually more serious when the plants are too crowded, have grasses and other weeds in the row, or have had too much nitrogen fertilizer.

A common disease of strawberry plants is herbicide injury. Although weed control is important in strawberry beds, herbicides must be used with care to prevent injury to the strawberry plants. Hand weeding, where practical, is a good idea.


Growing Strawberries in the Home Garden

Used Canopy Bed Netting

Saturday, November 12, 2011

Beautiful Landscapes Through Smart Watering: Part 2

Cascade Water Alliance is a wholesale water provider in King County, Washington serving approximately 400000 residents. Join Paula, from Cascade Water Alliance, in this 3-part video series to learn how to keep your plants healthy and ensure your sprinklers are operating at peak efficiency. In Part 2, Paula discusses how to inspect both your manual and automatic in-ground sprinkler systems, and how to identify and repair problems that you may find. Produced by Photo Finish Films, Inc. and Directed by Doug Stapleton

Shop For Kreg Project Plans Lr1130 Battery Equivalent Buy Online Good Bargain Cuisinart Powerblend Duet

Wednesday, October 19, 2011

How to Dehumidify Your Home With an Annual Checkup

!±8± How to Dehumidify Your Home With an Annual Checkup

Excessive levels of humidity in your home can damage your house, your possessions and your health. How? One word: Mold. Health risks from mold are especially a concern for those households with family members who are elderly, infants, suffer from allergies, asthma or chemical sensitivities. In order to combat humidity, it is important to be on watch for water leaks and other sources of moisture in your home. A humidity level between 30% and 50% is what you want to aim for.

Regular checks of your home are one way to maintain healthy humidity levels. Here is a brief list of things to look for on a scheduled basis. Most are easy to perform yourself, but you can also have a home maintenance contractor or company do them for you.

1. Air conditioner drain lines - Can be damaged when the line that drains get clogged, overflowing water from the drip pan. Periodically check drip pan for water. Schedule annual inspection/service call to avoid buildup of algae and mold in the drain line.

2. Garbage disposal system - periodically check for cracking and other causes of leaks in your waste disposal. Look for damp spots underneath the counter where it may be dripping.

3. Hot Water Heater -, water heaters can rust or form cracks over time; resulting leaks can be a big source of moisture and costly to repair. Check for rust and deterioration every year. Check the drain pan for water, making sure the drain line for the pan is not clogged. Your water heater should be drained and cleaned the as per the manufacturer's recommendations.

4. Shower, Sink, Toilet, and Tub - water leakage from around bathtubs, toilets, showers and sinks may cause widespread damage due to the leak often being concealed from view. You can prevent leaks by making sure there is a watertight continuous sealing of caulk around all edges of sinks, toilets, tubs and shower stalls. Cracks in caulk or tile grout on walls or shower floors can point to lack of a watertight seal. This can be a problem if you reside in multi-family housing such as a condo or apartment building, because the leak could be in a neighbor's bathroom without your knowledge.

5. Sprinklers/Irrigation Systems - Should maintain enough distance from the house so as not to allow sprinklers or sprinkler heads to dampen exterior walls.

6. Attic - Seasonal checks for damp insulation or water stains can uncover small or slow roof leaks.


How to Dehumidify Your Home With an Annual Checkup

Low Price Dollhouse Bunk Beds Coupon Server Room Temperature Sensors

Monday, August 22, 2011

Rain Bird XFD 500ft Roll Drip Line .6 GPH 12" spacing

!±8± Rain Bird XFD 500ft Roll Drip Line .6 GPH 12" spacing


Rate : | Price : | Post Date : Aug 22, 2011 19:31:41
Usually ships in 2-3 business days

Rain Bird XFTM Series DriplineRain Bird XFTM Series Dripline is the latest innovation in the Rain Bird Xerigation® family. Because it is the most flexible, kink-resistant tubing available, it's ideal for irrigating areas where traditional drip tubing is difficult to install. XFTM dripline is perfect for small, narrow and tight planting areas, as well as areas with tight curves or many switchbacks.Because it accepts 17mm insert fittings, XFTM Series Dripline Insert Fittings, Rain Bird Easy-Fit compression fittings and LOC fittings makes it easier than ever to design with, and install Rain Bird dripline.XFTM Series Dripline is simple, reliable and durable.FeaturesSimpleUnique material offers significantly greater flexibility and kink-resistance for fast, easy installation.The bend radius for XFTM dripline is 3" no matter which way you bend the tube. Other driplines will bend 4" if bending with the natural curve of the coil and only 7" if bending against the natural curve of the coil.Greater flexibility assures design capability of tight curves and spaces.Accepts Rain Bird Easy Fit compression fittings, XFTM Series Dripline insert fittings, 17mm insert fittings and LOC fittings.Variety of flow rates, spacing and coil lengths provides design flexibility for a number of nonturfgrass applications.ReliableThe pressure-compensating emitter design provides a consistent flow over the entire lateral length ensuring higher uniformity for increased reliability in the pressure range of 8.5 to 60 psi.DurableDual-layered tubing (brown over black) provides unmatched resistance to chemicals, algae growth and UV damage.Operating RangePressure: 8.5 to 60 psiFlow rates: 0.6 and 0.9 gphTemperature:Water: Up to 100°FAmbient: Up to 125°FRequired Filtration: 120 meshSpecificationsOD: 0.634"ID: 0.536"Thickness: 0.049"12", 18", 24" spacingAvailable in 100', 250' and 500' coils

!8!# New Barbell Cap Low Cost Belkin N10117 !8!# Sportdog Brand Immediately

Wednesday, August 17, 2011

How to install drip irrigation sprinklers by conversion

!8!# Johnny G Spinning Bike Right Now Coach Sig Satchel Save You Money! Great Deals Deck Layout Plans

Monday, August 8, 2011

Self-watering planters

!±8± Self-watering planters

Self-watering planters are a new trend, everywhere you look. And why not? It saves time and money and can keep your plants look healthy, if do not have time, we forget or do we go on vacation. There are at least three simple ways to make your self-watering planters: 1 Use a drip irrigation kit, 2 Use a system of water supply, or the third coordinate with the irrigation system.

Drip irrigation kits are a way to make you watering flower boxesare of two types. The first taste is to use a container, a bottle of water or other storage device that can be stuffed and put in the dirt. There are a variety of products such as Aqua Spikes and those who do this work and perfect for the holiday. The second flavor is the use of a kit. Kits usually with the use of pipe connected at one end of an outside tap and on the other hand, offers continuous drop in the box. These kits are usually 100% self-irrigation andwill constantly drip into the field with the desired speed. Just check on them every so often to ensure that it continues to function properly.

The second method of self-watering planters is my favorite and is very popular with most people. It 'about the use of an insert water tank which is located on the bottom of the window or planter. The Wickinator is an example of one of these products. Self-watering tanks work by storing more waterbelow the soil surface. In general, they comprise a humidity control mechanism, which is in contact with these isolated water and soil. The wicks water from the tank and fill it in the ground permanently, such as the withdrawal tests. This is much the same way that the water to spread a piece of cloth by dipping a corner of a glass of water. For the water must normally be stocked every 2 weeks, but can keep the plants to die for people with active lifestylesare always moving.

The last method of self-watering planters is to help coordinate with the irrigation system. Sometimes sprinklers redirected to a series of flower pots are made. For more demanding applications, pipe from the ground in front of the box, where a variety of accessories allow you to discharge or blow up in the box can. These can be really cheap and easy, or they can be complex and expensive, depending on configuration.


Self-watering planters

Usb N64 Controller This Instant Top 10 Popular Karaoke Song New Nantucket Sweatshirts

Friday, August 5, 2011

Pumpkins Organic growth

!±8± Pumpkins Organic growth

Pumpkin Facts

If you grow pumpkins, it will be more or less follow the same guidelines for the pumpkin would do.

The oldest evidence of growing pumpkins goes back to about 7000 BC in Mexico.

Farmers in the United States is currently growing pumpkins about 1500000000 pounds a year, many gardeners to add more.

One of the most popular customs of Halloween pumpkins for the "holiday", when the majority of the population in their goofy faces sculptsPumpkins and candles in them. If you really want to know why Google.

If the plant Pumpkins

You need more than 80-120 frost free days in which to grow pumpkins, so mature.

You can begin to grow your pumpkins inside about 4 weeks before last frost days. The soil should be about 60 degrees to 65 degrees F to 2 inches deep.

If you use floating row covers, pumpkins in your garden, you can transplant a couple of weeks before the expected last frost.

If youwho live in hot areas of your pumpkin seeds after the danger of frost is past can plant, usually at the end of March or mid April.

You want your plan pumpkins ripen in late summer or early fall. The larger the pumpkin, taking several days to mature.

Where to plant gourds

Pumpkins require a minimum of 6 hours of full sun daily.

Pumpkins growing need for garden soil that drains well and has a lot of organic material mixedin it.

Your soil should ideally have a balance of pH in the range between 5.8 and 7.5, right in the middle, the best pH value.

Your soil needs sufficient amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, many of which were with the liberal application of compost and / or composted manure, bone meal, blood meal and the like.

Land preparation equipment Pumpkins

Pumpkins need a lot of nutrients in the soil, which can be powered mainly by compost andcomposted manure.

The best way to put the compost is applied where your hills are several inches of compost and mix in the area about 2 m in diameter about a foot deep.

If you are rototilling lines, add 2 to 4 inches of compost, composted manure, etc., and rototiller on it about 8 inches deep.

You can also mound the soil in which you will help your plants in the mix in compost or other organic substances.

Other products are added to the medium can be, lucerne meal earlynitrogen in the season and later in the meal, feather meal, ground oyster shells or eggs season of calcium, potassium green sand and seaweed meal for trace elements.

Choosing the right variety of seeds for your region

If you have a small garden, you should note that pumpkin vines can take up to 100 square feet.

Pumpkins, at least in most species are too heavy to row, but grow well in large garden areas.

Contact the county extension office to see if thereare common diseases in pumpkins in your neighborhood. If so, get suggestions for the seeds that are resistant to these diseases.

Disease, the infested pumpkins were discussed in detail in the second half of this contribution.

Seeds and germination

Pumpkin seeds are usually still plantable six years after they bought them from a seed, reliable suppliers.

Pumpkin seeds are not in soil temperature below 60 ° C to 105 ° C. The optimum temperature for germination germinationbetween 86 ° C to 95 ° C.

Seedlings should emerge in about 5 days at the optimum temperature range, if they grow in full sun or under lights (fluorescent tubes are OK) are.

If you sow directly to the floors, you can warm up with a black plastic mulch on the ground. Getting the soil with plastic (to make sure that all edges are covered with dirt), and cut holes for seeds.

The soil temperature should not be sprouting garden, not less than 60 ° C to 65 ° C your pumpkinSeeds.

Pumpkin house plants

Plant your pumpkin seeds in peat pots or soil blocks 3 or 4 weeks before last frost. You can use conical plastic cups as well, but pots of peat and / or blocks of land are better ways.

Use a good potting mix or mix of start-up to start your pumpkin seeds are readily available in the mixes at your local garden center.

If you mix your own potting soil to create, you can mix the clay soil, sphagnum peat, perlite, and the purchaseYour local garden shop. The addition of compost to the mix creates an ideal mix of start-up.

Do not use garden soil as many weed seeds, fungal spores and the errors that are not optimal for the start of your pumpkins have inside.

If you want to grow a pumpkin plant in containers or more, you must get at least a 10-liter pot.

9 liters of soil mix, mix a few cups of flour, alfalfa meal, feather meal half cup, half cup of powdered eggshell or oyster shell calcium,half a cup of green sand for potassium, and a few tablespoons of seaweed to cover the trace elements.

. Dilute plant three or four seeds about 1 "deep Only plants have at least two true leaves, leave the 2 best maps and about 10 cm high, choose the best accommodations and the other clip with scissors.

Pumpkins transplant in your garden

Before transplanting your real pumpkins in your garden, you need to "strengthen" your plants.

For hardeningYour pumpkin seedlings, they move to the outside during the day and reduce watering.

Your plants should be 2 or more leaves at this stage, and is already 3 or 4 weeks since it was originally planted them.

As pumpkins prefer warm temperatures, ideally the day temps between 75 ° and 85 ° C daytime and 60 degrees to 65 degrees F night temperatures.

However, if you're so far north as we live, you can not answer these temperatures up to 2-4 weeks after transplantation, so thatmay want to use row covers and black plastic ground cover to help your pumpkins to make a good start.

You need a minimum temperature of 60 ° F to soil your plant squash, so plant them in an area that gets lots of sun.

If planted in rows, space rows 4-6 feet apart and the plants 2 to 3 meters in rows. If you have a wider selection of pumpkin, you might want to plant them in rows 3-4 feet away.

If your plant pumpkin seedlings, dig aHole that is big enough snaps peat pots, floor pad or mass of soil, then pack the soil around the plant.

Make sure the soil is moist but not wet, you should be able to grab a dense clump of dirt with your hand or is too wet.

Plastic mulch, a couple of weeks before the transplant date is set to be a significant help (how much depends on the help of an asset from one part of the type of plastic mulch is used - the traditional black is the least useful).

Pumpkin PlantingSeeds directly in your garden

Once the soil temps have stabilized above 60 ° C, you can plant pumpkin seeds in your garden. You must make sure that you are in danger of frost.

If topping up your field of pumpkins, put on your foot hills at a distance of 4-8 and 4-6 seeds about an inch deep and about 1 inch apart in a circle or a square configuration.

If you sow in rows, the rows should be 4-8 feet apart, and the seeds should be planted 6-12 inchesseparately.

Once the seeds have germinated, you can thin your plants to once every 18-36 inches, depending on whether larger or smaller pumpkin varieties, and can manage your garden soil.

Your best Pumpkins

Once your plants at least two true leaves, thin them apart have 2 or 3 plants per hill or 18-36 cm, when they are in a row.

Pumpkins have male and female flowers. The male flowers first appeared 40 to 50 days after germination. A weekfemale flowers begin to emerge later.

If you have a lot of insects, pollination should not be a problem.

If you have too few insects, you will begin to fall, the female flowers. To avoid this, you can rest your hand with a cotton swab or small brush to take the pollen from the male flowers and give them to pollinate the female flowers.

At the beginning of the season, make sure that the pumpkin plant are not covered in weeds.

Pull weeds by hand within six inches of cucurbits,the surface hoe weeds, which are more distant, rototiller and weeds over a foot out of your squash plants.

Once the vines have covered the ground, you will not need too much grass in the pumpkin patch the rest of the season.

It 'a good practice, about half of the season, side dress your plants pumpkin (about 6 inches from the base of the plant) with flour compost compost, manure or alfalfa.

Pruning the plants with small pumpkins to help othersTo get big pumpkins.

There is also a good idea if drills pumpkin in your area to hilly dirt around the base of the plants, they need to prevent them from laying eggs.

Jenny's Tip - If you ever smaller pumpkins (about the size of a volleyball or less), you can grow pumpkins and trellis, you can use panty hose or the like, make a sling to keep it upright.

Mulching and weeding

Early in the season can be made of black plastic mulch best option, as the heat 'Soil and suppresses weeds.

Grass or straw to help spread the pumpkin plants, both throttle pesky weeds and conserve soil moisture.

You do not want to apply to this type of mulch to the soil to about 75 degrees F as mulch tends to keep the soil cool.

One of the greatest assets of mulching is that, because the pumpkins have shallow root systems, weed does not bother them too much.

Irrigation Pumpkins

When growing pumpkins, depending on theClimate, should be watered 1 to 2 inches on a weekly basis.

If you mulch, you can water a little 'less, but check your soil moisture frequently during hot, dry periods.

If the water once a week, especially if you've mulched, should be fine.

Enough water to get about 6 to 8 inches into the ground. Irrigation light of pumpkins is virtually useless.

If your soil is sandy, it uses less water but the water a couple of timesWeek.

If your pumpkin is back, you may need a little 'more than if the plants spread over the ground water worlds.

As with most vegetables, drip irrigation or soaker hoses are the preferred method of irrigation. However, if only in a sprinkler head, water early in the morning, so as to reduce the risk of mold and mildew.

Companion planting and rotation considerations

A good companion for growing pumpkins are:

Beans, the complement to your garden with nitrogenit absorbs from the air.

Pumpkins to help keep the roots of corn moisture.

Radishes have a reputation to protect your pumpkins, squash drills.

Mint is said to control ants, aphids, flea beetles, rodents and help.

Onions repel fruit tree drills, awls, aphids, rust flies, moles, and some root nematodes.

Marigolds and nasturtiums repel insects and beetles away from your pumpkins. They also attract bees to pollinate your flowers of pumpkin.

Oregano is alsosaid to keep squash benefit to many parasites.

Companions bad for squash, potatoes. Inhibit the growth of potato plants in the squash.

Not necessarily need to turn pumpkins every year if you have problems with dry rape, Fusarium or viruses of the mosaic red.

When Harvest Pumpkins

Like most winter squash, pumpkins are ready to harvest when the skin is hard and can not be pierced with a nail.

We usually wait until the first"Killing Frost" to pick our pumpkins. At this time the skins are usually a dark orange and the stems have hardened.

I always use a scissors to cut the pumpkin comes from the vine, so that about 3 cm of the stem. This helps protect the pumpkins decomposition and provides a handle to collect it.

This is a practice essay, a kind of cloth or leather gloves when handling dry stalks that put pumpkins can be quite abrasive.

Treat your pumpkins picked.Bruises or injuries to the skin affect the shelf life of pumpkins.

Save and / or maintenance of Pumpkins

Pumpkins store well through the winter. We have pumpkins and more often in June, when he carefully picked.

A place in a dark basement garages, crawl space under your house or a basement is usually the ideal places for storing pumpkin.

If a pumpkin has been injured or cut during harvest or when they move into the storage area, use this as a firstwill rot quickly in storage.

You can cut out the red spots and bake, steam or otherwise cook pumpkins, without any negative impact on the taste and nutritional value of the remaining shares.

You can steam frozen squash and zucchini, if you do not have a place for storage.

Warning: may be difficult enough to warm the pumpkin all the bacteria, to recommend that if you get a canned puree kill, can, at best, the cube and can of pumpkin in a smallSea salt and water.

We experimented with pumpkins and held in the warmer areas of our house at 65 ° to 70 ° C throughout the winter squash and plenty to eat throughout the winter.

Prevention and natural solutions to common pests

Cucumber beetle is a striped beetle is about 3 / 16 "long, greenish-yellow with three black stripes, ran after him.

Spotted cucumber beetle is about the same, but with a dozen points on the back.

Regardlessbeetles than they seem, are parasites that eat bad enough plants and bacteria to spread or raping your plants wilt.

To prevent these beetles from having to know your plants, you can use includes the lines before flowering, to keep them away from your plants pumpkin.

If the problems are too serious, can be treated with rotenone or pyrethrin organic organic with these animals.

Another nasty pest is the drill screw squash. Usually occur around the time ofVines begin to spread in your garden. Fortunately, there is no need to attack pumpkin, cucumber, watermelon and melon (cantaloupe).

Squash drills lives are an inch or so long, quite often, and are white with a brown head.

They are the larvae of a small moth with brown forewings and hind wings of light and a red belly. The butterflies lay their eggs in late spring or early summer near the base of your pumpkin vines.

The tips are about a week later and a hole inTo get your wine in them. You will see a small hole below the hole and green excrement. And you can see, the vine will die suddenly.

To prevent squash vine drill decimate your plants first to see the moths (and listen ... have a buzz when they fly, which is unusual for moths).

You can also yellow bowls of water to trap the moths, are attracted to the color, so will fly in the bowl and drown.

At this point it's a good idea to useRange includes about 2 weeks to disappear, the butterflies again. Be sure to cover the edges of the line covered in dirt to seal the moths.

If you start the flowering plants at this time you can hand-pollinate your pumpkins, if necessary. Do not use insecticides, as it can also kill beneficial insects that pollinate the plants too.

If you find the drill a hole before the plant wilts and dies set, you can sometimes cautious a hole in the screw and remove the drill.Cover the hole with soil and wine, most of the time it will send roots into the soil from the cutting area.

If you have a wine that have been killed by a drill to find the cut, and destroy lives.

Aphids are common pests that can lower the sides of your pumpkin leaves are. You know you're there when you see yellow leaves and crackling or curling.

Aphids suck the sap from the leaves of the plants and leave behind a sticky substance. The only beneficiaries of thisAnts process to collect the sticky sweet stuff.

The best solution for ladybugs, aphids to import your garden. They feed on aphids and are very effective in ridding the plants of these little green bugs.

Another solution is to "wash" with a hose and nozzle or a high-pressure organic insecticidal soap.

Squash bugs are probably the most common parasites, but are slightly easier to control drill. They suck the juice from the leaves of pumpkinso that first identified and then the leaves will wither and die.

Squash bug control is easier if the land has many nutrients your plants are healthy.

Get rid of anything around your garden, like the old cards or anything that you can hide in the winter.

It also helps transform, or rototiller in your garden in the fall to eliminate these types of errors, such as hide

To get rid of bugs, manual harvesting usually works in a garden, because it is not so greattake more than one or two hours a week in summer for a few weeks.

If you get this error and nymphs, have a bucket of soapy water to make them fall into ... The soap breaks the capillary action of water, so the error immediately sink and drown in water.

If you find eggs on the underside of the leaves and stems, simply crush the eggs.

A tip or two in the pumpkin patch during the night ... The error will gather under the boards in the night. In the morning, lift the edge andCollection of insects and drop in the bucket of soapy water.

Rotenone and pyrethrins as organic compounds are also effective if you have a heavy infestation of these parasites.

Environmental factors

To develop flower-end rot causes a black rot fruit at the end of the pumpkin. Heat / lack of water, and a calcium deficiency are the main cause of corruption. You can then ensure that your plants of water and possibly prevent, add lime to the soil beforeIrrigation.

Downy mildew is a foliar disease and is caused by a fungus with a long Latin names. If you really want to know the name, let me know and I copy it and paste it into a response.

This mold is not usually a problem unless you have a cold spell in 45 ° to 55 ° F range for a month or more.

Powdery mildew appears first as yellow spots on plant leaves, squash, and then to brown or beige in downy gray or white. Then, black spots andthe leaves wither and the plants and sometimes even die.

To avoid mold, growing variety of pumpkin that are resistant to them.

Also, leave a space between plants so you do not stay wet for too long.

And if the conditions seem favorable for the disease to appear (ie a long cold and rainy), spray the sheets with a compost tea. About tea, put into a compost bucket and fill it with water, and when he's down, fill the syringe with water and sprinkle brownPlant leaves with him.

Powdery mildew is another mold that can affect your plants pumpkin, but a very different look. It is whitish and dusty on the leaves and stems and grows squash.

And 'caused by moisture, heat and humidity, but rather cool and rainy.

When the leaves are infected, they usually die. If the infection is severe, can kill the entire plant.

If you are able to avoid the irrigation head. Otherwise, water early in the morning so that theThe plants can dry out by noon or so.

If you keep pests under control and spray the leaves with thy vineyard, and a compost-tea-soda solution or a solution, you probably do not have a problem with this disease.

Other solutions are organic sulfur compounds, or spray a weak solution of milk and water (9:1).

If you placed this mold, to destroy the vineyard, at the end of the season and turn your pumpkin into a new area next season gardening.

You can also seedsVarieties that are resistant to fungi such as mildew and dust are.

Another fungus with long Latin names led to a plague called "black rot". Black rot is found mainly in warmer climates and more humid as the U.S. Southeast, but can also occur in pumpkin and squash in colder climates.

Red and black rubber is a plague that attacks the stems and leaves of squash plants. It is usually caused by too much moisture.

Black rot on dry plant will surviveMatter or soil. They will live there for over a year.

It lives on dry plant material or soil, where it can survive for more than a year. And 'need to rotate crops of pumpkin in a new area, if your shot hits the crop.

To avoid the black red, irrigation was able to reduce free moisture on leaf surfaces, and at least a two-year rotation cycle is a must.

Even in this case irrigation should be avoided in the lead, but when you do not have the water chosen in the early stages ofDay.

It can also be an organic fungicide spray with baking soda (sodium bicarbonate). In a liter of water, add a few drops of organic olive oil, few drops of green liquid soap, and 3 tablespoons of baking soda. Spray on the squash court, in order to effectively control all of the above fungi.

Fusarium fruit rot is a soil fungus to infect your pumpkin can be cut.

You can see this problem in a slightly sunken purple margins. Awhite fungus often develop at the center of the lesions. It can be deployed with a watering can.

Crop rotation and planting of resistant varieties is the best defense against Fusarium fruit rot.

Straw mulch can help prevent rotting fruit right through the pumpkins in contact with the ground.

Do not store pumpkins, which described the symptoms as they will rot quickly in storage.

Angular leaf spot is a bacterial infection, the points that have a heat output to water, createsand be guided by the leaf veins, giving them a square appearance.

Warm humid climate is a promoter of this infection, and if it dries, the holes created by this disease can be overcome.

Prevention of ALS begins with clean seed and resistant varieties. Do not crowd your plants like humidity creates conditions in which the disease.

If you have only stamping on the head, please do so in the morning. She spoke to spray your plants with fungicides, if done at homeSymptoms.

Just when you thought it was safe to grow pumpkins, then comes the mosaic virus.

Mosaic is usually spread by aphids. Develop their pumpkins leaves irregular both in shape and size, and fruit may have the same symptoms.

Prevent aphids infect the plants with row covers, the best option. Diatomaceous earth works well, but only if it is in powder form (not wet).

You might think that this time we would otherwise nothing, absolutelyanything else that might affect your pumpkin crop, but unfortunately we must speak bacterial wilt.

Bacterial wilt is due to your cucumber beetles if they are, if your pumpkin seedlings emerge, they can infect the plants early.

Bacterial appears when the leaves begin to wilt in the umbrella-shaped appearance, then the entire plant collapses and dies.

As you can imagine, is the control of cucumber beetle control bacterial wilt, so if your growingYour pumpkins are organic line includes the most effective prevention early in the season.

Most fungal infections by planting resistant varieties, crop rotation, and are controlled with a spray over homemade.

Everything else can usually includes checking the error with the line, diatomaceous earth and pyrethrin are treated when they get serious.


Pumpkins Organic growth

Low Cost Ti Graphing Calculator

Thursday, July 28, 2011

Lawn and sprinkler irrigation - Taking care of garden plants and lawns

!±8± Lawn and sprinkler irrigation - Taking care of garden plants and lawns

Garden plants and lawn care is not a difficult task. Even a novice gardener, do it even if some guidelines or suggestions to be taken into account. This article will help you understand some ideas for the care of the lawn / garden.

Why is it necessary to choose the right method of watering?

The fundamental thing that goes behind the growth and maintenance of your garden properly, the water supply. Adequate supply of water is the key to the growth of the lawn and gardenPlants.

You see, not all plantations need in your garden, the same amount of water. And even the offer is above the water or too little water, good for planting. Hence the choice of a proper irrigation is very important.

Choosing the right irrigation method or system

It allows you to choose the irrigation system according to the needs of your garden. If you have vegetable or flower beds, then you need frequent watering in the right proportion. If you have large trees orShrubs, rarely need watering deep.

There are several irrigation systems and accessories for your garden. If the garden and want to save time, money and water, drip irrigation system is best for you. The water supply, irrigation system provides goes directly to the roots of plants. There is a small chance for evaporation and waste.

If you want to water the lawn, then drip irrigation is of little use. Here you can choose the gardenSprinklers / fire protection / sprinkler systems. You can easily install the system yourself. There are also multiple-choice options, such as sprinkler spray heads, rotor and drip variations, wet sprinkler systems, dry sprinkler systems, sprinkler systems do it yourself, micro and floppy.

What to remember during the irrigation of garden plants?

Adult plants need less water than new ones. The most important thing to consider is to determine the condition of irrigationNeeds. Consider the soil type and moisture of your lawn garden. This will help provide the level of irrigation.

Keeping all these considerations and help you grow in your garden green!


Lawn and sprinkler irrigation - Taking care of garden plants and lawns

Promotion Calories Burned Machine Luminor Panerai Daylight Free Shipping !8!# Saucony Discount Shoes Fast

Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Sprinkle and Trickle Irrigation

!±8±Sprinkle and Trickle Irrigation

Brand :
Rate :
Price : $89.94
Post Date : Jul 26, 2011 09:47:14
Usually ships in 1-2 business days



This book, first published in 1990 and reprinted here, is a comprehensive, state-of-the art reference on the design principles and management techniques of two primary agricultural irrigation methods. The book presents a systematic approach to the optimal design, management and operation of these two systems. Focusing on the synthesis of the entire design process, the authors present the chapters in the sequence used to design systems with the analytical material presented and demonstrated in a concise manner. For the first time in any book, Sprinkle and Trickle Irrigation offers complete design strategies and presentations for all of the major types of sprinkle and trickle systems: - Periodic-move - Center-pivot - Traveling sprinkler - Linear-moving - Set sprinkler - Drip, spray and line-source Sequential sample calculations that involve the steps in the design of typical irrigation systems are used extensively. As the book progresses, these calculations become more comprehensive and are linked together to form complete design packages for the various types of pressurized systems. The book also presents a section on selecting pressurized irrigation systems, a review of soil-plant-water relationships, unique insight into pipeline hydraulics and economics, design specifications for fertilization and frost control, a glossary and an annotated bibliography of ASAE Standards for Pressurized Irrigation Systems. Sprinkle and Trickle Irrigation is an important practical reference for agricultural engineers, irrigation system designers and agricultural managers, as well as a vital text for professors and researchers in agricultural engineering. "Sprinkle and Trickle Irrigation presents beginning-to-end coverage of the processes and computations needed in the planning and design of sprinkle and trickle irrigation systems. The textbook is created for the thinking person who desires more than cookie-cutter recipes or simple, routine "rule-of-thumb" designs. Rather, the authors of Sprinkle and Trickle Irrigation present concise rationale and philosophy behind each computation formula, figure and table. They decouple "recommended" design parameters into underlying components that can be recoupled at the time of the design to apply to specific cases and situations. In the process, the reader gains visualization skills that allow him/her to peer "inside" an irrigation system, both hydraulically, economically, and operationally. Sprinkle and Trickle Irrigation is a classic design text and reference that should be on every practitioner's desk. The chapters on center-pivot, linear-move and travelling sprinklers go well beyond other current texts. Solid and encompassing economics are infused into all design topics, including application, distribution, and pumping systems. I have lectured out of Sprinkle and Trickle Irrigation for twelve years at the university-senior level. I am confident that all students who completed this design course know not only how to design efficient and effective pressurized irrigation systems, but also know why they use the procedures that they use." Dr. Richard G. Allen, Professor, University of Idaho

Frye Boots Fast !8!# Best Prices Philips Dvd Dvp642 !8!# Last Minute Electric Blanket Sunbeam

Monday, July 25, 2011

Claber 8053 Oasis 4-Program/20 Plant Garden Automatic Drip Watering System

!±8± Claber 8053 Oasis 4-Program/20 Plant Garden Automatic Drip Watering System


Rate : | Price : $67.16 | Post Date : Jul 26, 2011 00:59:32
Usually ships in 1-2 business days

Claber Oasis Self - Watering System keeps plants healthy while you're away! Set it up to water your precious indoor greenery for 10, 20, 30 or even 40 days for up to 20 plants! No electrical connections needed and no water taps left on! Powered by a 9V battery (not included), this System dispenses water from the 6 1/2 gallon tank so you don't have to worry on your vacation! More: Comes with 33 feet of water distribution hose ; Includes 20 drippers and fixing stakes ; LED on / off indicator light ; Isolated tank prevents condensation ; Washable filter for clean, pure water flow ; Rubber feet won't scratch your tabletops; Shipping dimensions: 15 x 15 x 15", weighs 9 1/2 lbs.; Pick up this handy Self-Waterer today! Order Today! Claber Oasis Self-Watering System

Dyson Dc Vacuum Save You Money! Cedar Saunas Discount !8!# Bargain Sale Atv For Sale Used


Twitter Facebook Flickr RSS



Français Deutsch Italiano Português
Español 日本語 한국의 中国简体。







Sponsor Links